Most trailer jacks get sold on one number: how many pounds they hold. That number matters, but it is not what makes a jack good. The ones worth your money keep their screws turning after three seasons of salt spray, extend far enough to reach a low frame, and hold a footpad steady on soft gravel. I spent weeks comparing the best rv leveling jacks for travel trailers across every category you will actually find on a retail shelf, from 6000 lb aluminum stack jacks to 9000 lb scissor sets and a 30 inch telescopic pair.
Before the list, one correction that saves a lot of owners money. A scissor jack is a stabilizer with a tall hat. It adds a few inches of height at a corner and stops the trailer from rocking. It does not, on its own, bring a trailer to a true zero-degree plane, and no amount of hand-cranking changes that. If you want real leveling without wrestling with plywood blocks, you are looking at a powered hydraulic system from Lippert, Bigfoot or HWH. The manual jacks below are the stabilizers you pair with blocks.
That distinction is the whole ballgame, so it gets its own section before any product names. We also use the forum math that owners actually run when they size jacks, which is your trailer weight divided by four compared against the rated load of a single jack. We apply a 50 percent safety margin on top of that, and the telescoping transmission jack guide we published covers the same kind of load-versus-travel thinking for a different job.
Table of Contents
Top 3 Best RV Leveling Jacks for Travel Trailers in 2026
The three picks below cover almost every trailer under 8000 lb GVWR. Each card carries the rating and review count straight from the product listing, so you can see how much real-world history sits behind it.
LIBRA 9K lb Scissor Jack Set of 4
- 9000 lb per jack
- 24 inch lift
- Drill-ready hex socket
- 11-gauge coated steel
RVGUARD 6000 lb Stack Jacks 4-Pack
- 6000 lb per jack
- 11 to 17 inch travel
- Cast aluminum
- Under 8 lbs for four
LIBRA 6000 lb Scissor Jacks Set of 2
- 6000 lb per jack
- 24 inch lift
- Wide bow-tie base
- Drill-ready socket
Our Editor’s Choice is the LIBRA 9K lb set of four: the highest rated load in this roundup, a 4.7 star average across more than 3200 reviews, and dual drill sockets so setup is a cordless driver instead of a crank. BEST VALUE goes to the RVGUARD stack jacks, which cost a fraction of the scissor kits and stop most of the rocking for a pop-up or small travel trailer. The best pair for a heavier trailer is the LIBRA 6000 lb set, where 24 inches of lift reaches frames the 17 inch stack jacks cannot.
Best RV Leveling Jacks for Travel Trailers in 2026 at a Glance
Every jack below, with its rated load, reach and drive mechanism in one place. The type column is the single most useful thing on this table: screw and scissor jacks stabilize, telescopic jacks add height, and nothing in this roundup levels on its own.
| Product | Specifications | Action |
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| LIBRA 9K lb Scissor Jack Set of 4 |
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| RVGUARD 6000 lb Stack Jacks 4-Pack |
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| LIBRA 6000 lb Scissor Jacks Set of 2 |
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 VEVOR 6000 lb Stack Jacks 4-Pack |
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 Kohree 7500 lb Scissor Jacks Set of 2 |
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 ROCKMAN 7500 lb Scissor Jacks Set of 2 |
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 Camco Eaz-Lift Telescopic Jacks Set of 2 |
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 BAL 7500 lb Classic Scissor Jacks |
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 Lippert 30 inch Scissor Jack Kit |
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 Pafessa 6500 lb Scissor Jack |
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A note on the VEVOR row, because the listing is confusingly written. It states 6000 lb capacity in the product details and a rated load of 4000 lbs in the technical specs. Plan on the lower figure when you size it.
1. LIBRA 9K lb Scissor Jack Set of 4 – Best Heavy-Duty Upgrade
Pros
- 9000 lb per jack is the highest rated load in this group
- Dual power-drill sockets with 3/4 inch hex socket included
- Complete mounting hardware plus a drill guide sticker
- Smooth scissor action across 24 inch of travel
Cons
- 58 lb set adds meaningful weight to the trailer
- Included 11/32 inch drill bit is weak for steel I-beams
- Threads can strip if driven hard with an impact gun
This is the set we kept coming back to. Each jack is stamped from 11-gauge steel with an electrophoresis coating, and at 9000 lb per jack it leaves real headroom on a trailer that is heavier than its dry weight suggests. Owners running this set on travel trailers describe a night-and-day difference against the factory stabilizers that came with the rig, which on most trailers are rated in the low thousands.
The part that changes daily life is the dual power-drill sockets. A 3/4 inch hex magnetic socket drops onto either end, so raising and lowering all four corners takes a cordless driver and about a minute per jack instead of several hundred crank turns. The installation kit includes 16 mounting screws, a 9/16 inch socket, a drill bit and a drilling guide sticker, which matters more than it sounds because marking four identical holes along an I-beam is the slowest part of any jack swap.
Height range is 4 inches retracted to 24 inches extended, with a 26 inch retracted length and 7.5 inch width. That 20 inch of travel is what lets the jack do something a 17 inch stack jack cannot: reach down to a frame rail sitting low on a travel trailer and still get under a sloped site. Retracted length is the number to check against your ground clearance, which is where a lot of owners run into trouble.
The honest drawback is weight. This set weighs 58 pounds, and four permanently mounted steel jacks add that much to your trailer every mile. Second, the included drill bit is the one part reviewers single out for replacement, because it is too soft for aluminum or steel I-beams. Third, several owners report stripped threads after driving the screw with an impact gun; hand-setting the rod with a ratchet is gentler on the gear train and the finish.
What it handles that lighter jacks cannot
Because the rating is 9000 lb per jack, a four-jack setup covers a lot of trailer. The forum math that owners use is simple: take your loaded trailer weight, divide by four, and compare. A trailer sitting at 12000 lb loaded puts 3000 lb on each corner, and a 9000 lb jack is sitting well inside its rating even on a soft surface.
That headroom is what makes this the safe pick for a fifth wheel or a bumper pull with a payload of bikes, a generator and a full water tank. It also means the jacks are not straining when the site is soft and the footpad sinks, which is when lighter stabilizers start bending at the column.
Where it is the wrong choice
If you tow a small pop-up or a teardrop trailer, this set is far more jack than you need and the 58 pounds is dead weight you will carry for nothing. The aluminum stack jacks later in this list weigh a fraction of that and do the same stabilizing job on a light rig.
Mounting also takes planning. The screw pattern is not universal, so use the drilling guide sticker and check the retracted clearance of all four before you commit. Coated steel is not immune to salt, and owners who store a trailer near an ocean should wipe the threads down each season.
2. RVGUARD 6000 lb Aluminum Stack Jacks – Best All-Round Stack Jack
Pros
- 6000 lb capacity in a corrosion-resistant cast aluminum body
- Four jacks weigh under 8 lbs total
- T-handle height adjustment is quick and simple
- Jack stands nest together for compact storage
Cons
- 11 to 17 inch range can be short for higher frames
- May need retightening periodically
- Steel screw and nut can rust without greasing
These are screw jacks, not scissor jacks, and that is the whole design. You slide them under the frame, spin the T-handle until the top rubber pad meets the rail, and the trailer stops moving. There is no drilling, no mounting plate and no permanent hardware, which makes them the fastest stabilizer setup on a small trailer and the easiest to carry in one hand.
At 1.9 lbs per jack and 7.7 lbs for the set of four, they are the second-lightest option we tested, and the cast aluminum body will not pit the way a steel screw jack does in coastal air. Buyers consistently report that the rocking stops. That is the job, done properly.
Two things catch people out. The 11 to 17 inch travel is genuinely short, so on a frame sitting higher than that you will need a 2×4 or a stack of blocks under the base to close the gap. And the screw and nut are steel, not aluminum, so a light coat of grease on the threads each season is what keeps them turning freely.
Manufacturer guidance is consistent: use these for stabilization only, and put wood or concrete pads under the base when you are on soft ground. That advice applies to every jack in this roundup, not just this one.
When this is the right call
Pop-up campers, teardrops and small travel trailers under about 3500 lb GVWR are the sweet spot. The load per jack works out to under 1000 lb, which leaves the 6000 lb rating with enormous margin, and the low weight matters when you are lifting them onto a hitch or carrying them to a site away from the truck.
Travel trailer owners who camp in the same spot twice a year and back out in the morning get the same result as someone who stays put for a month. The stabilizing work is identical either way.
Where it falls short
These will not level a trailer on a meaningful slope, and the range limit means a taller frame needs extra blocking. Anyone chasing a true level plane should be reading the powered systems section instead.
For very heavy trailers, a 6000 lb screw jack is carrying more than its share of the corner load and the lead screw becomes the weak point over time. Pair these with blocks rather than relying on them to do a lifting job the manufacturer never rated them for.
3. LIBRA 6000 lb Scissor Jacks – Best Two-Jack Pair for Heavy Trailers
Pros
- 6000 lb rated capacity in a bolt-on 24 inch scissor design
- Power-drill hex socket speeds up every adjustment
- Complete mounting hardware and drill guide sticker included
- Wide bow-tie base stays steady on soft or uneven ground
Cons
- Included drill bit dulls quickly
- Two-jack pack means a second order for the other corners
- Heavier than the factory stabilizer it replaces
This is the same scissor architecture as the LIBRA set of four at a lower capacity, and for a trailer in the 6000 to 8000 lb range the math still lands comfortably. Divide a 7000 lb loaded weight by four and each corner carries 1750 lb against a 6000 lb rating, which leaves plenty of margin for a soft campsite.
The wide bow-tie base is what separates this from a narrow scissor jack. It spreads the load across a larger footprint, so on soft gravel or a rain-soaked pull-through the foot does not punch in and let the corner settle. Reviewers repeatedly single that base out as the reason their trailer stopped leaning after rain.
Installation is straightforward and fast. A pair goes up in roughly half an hour for most owners using the eight included 3/8 inch mounting screws, the 9/16 inch socket and the guide sticker. Extends from 5 inches retracted to 24 inches, with a 26.5 inch retracted length and 7.5 inch width, which is a 19 inch working range once you are at the site.
Two honest caveats. The pack is a pair, so a full rig means two of these. And the supplied drill bit is the weak link, dulling quickly on an aluminum or steel I-beam, so buy a proper bit before you start rather than discovering it halfway through the fourth hole.
Why this beats the taller screw jacks
The extra 7 inches of reach is the deciding factor on a low frame. A 17 inch stack jack has to sit on blocks to reach a rail that sits 16 inches off the ground, and blocks sink on soft ground. A 24 inch scissor jack starts near the frame and extends to meet it, so a bad campsite does not turn into a leveling problem.
Because the socket is drill-ready, a full four-corner setup with two packs is fast enough that owners stop dreading it. That changes how people camp: a rig that levels in a few minutes gets used on difficult sites rather than only on flat ones.
What to watch out for
Do not let anyone use this as a lifting jack. The scissor mechanism is rated for stabilizing and leveling, and driving it up under load to raise a wheel off the ground is how columns bend and screw threads strip.
Retracted length is the other check. At 26.5 inches, the installed jack sits lower than a screw jack, which is good for clearance on a sloped driveway, but on a low-clearance tow vehicle it is worth checking before you drill.
4. VEVOR 6000 lb Stack Jacks – Budget Pick
Pros
- 1.65 lbs per jack
- light enough to carry one-handed
- Die-cast aluminum body resists corrosion
- Cushioned rubber ring protects the frame rail
Cons
- Feels light beside permanently mounted jacks
- Listed dimensions smaller than the photos show
- Stabilizer duty only
- not for lifting
This is the cheapest way to kill trailer rocking, and for a lightweight rig on a firm site that is genuinely all you need. The die-cast ADC12 aluminum body and 20 gauge galvanized steel screw are the right material pairing for corrosion resistance, and the cushioned rubber ring on top keeps the jack from marking a frame rail.
Four jacks weigh 6.6 lbs total, so setup is a one-hand carry from the truck to each corner. The T-handle adjusts from 11 to 17 inches and turns easily enough that a full rig is a few minutes of work.
Be aware of the rating discrepancy before you size anything. The product details list 6000 lbs, but the technical specification states a rated load of 4000 lbs per jack. Use the 4000 lb figure for load math. On a 5000 lb loaded trailer that is 1250 lb per corner, which is still comfortable, and it is why this works as a light-rig stabilizer rather than a heavy-rig one.
Where the low weight pays off
Older owners carrying jacks up a steep driveway or across soft ground will feel the difference between 1.65 lbs and 14 lbs per jack immediately. These disappear into a storage box and do not need to be permanently mounted, which also means no holes in your frame.
For a pop-up, a small travel trailer or a boat hauler that only sees a few nights a year, the economics are hard to argue with. The job gets done and the jacks live in a closet the rest of the year.
Reasons to step up instead
If your trailer has a high frame, the 11 inch minimum will not reach it without blocks. And owners report that the actual units feel light and read smaller than the listing photos suggest, so measure before you buy a set expecting a tall screw jack.
These are stabilizers, full stop. They will not level anything, and pushing one to lift a trailer is outside what the lead screw and aluminum body are designed to handle.
5. Kohree 7500 lb Scissor Jacks – Best for Soft Ground
Pros
- 7500 lb capacity in a bolt-on 24 inch scissor design
- Works with either the included crank handle or a power drill
- Smooth tooth gear arms keep travel straight and vertical
- Wide bow-tie base helps on uneven ground
Cons
- Power drill is not included with the set
- 25 lb for the pair adds real weight
- Manual drive only
The 7500 lb rating here is the sweet spot for mid-size travel trailers. It is high enough that a 9000 lb loaded rig still lands each corner well inside the rating, and the 24 inch lift reaches frames that a stack jack cannot touch. The scissor arms run in straight lines under load because of the smooth tooth gear design, which keeps the top of the jack from walking sideways.
Unlike several competitors, this kit includes both a crank handle and a 3/4 inch drill socket. That flexibility matters on a dark campsite or with a bad back, and it also means the jack still works if the socket goes missing.
The electrophoresis coating is the rust story here. Steel scissor jacks live or die on the finish, and a properly coated inner column keeps the screw from seizing in the third season. That is exactly the failure owners report on original equipment jacks, which is why replacement is such a common project.
The honest drawback is that the drill itself is not in the box, and a 25 lb pair is a genuine two-hand lift into position. Both are acceptable if you are bolting these on rather than carrying them around.
What makes the base matter
The wide bow-tie footprint spreads the load over roughly twice the area of a narrow plate. On beach sand or a wet pull-through, that is the difference between a stable night and a trailer that leans every time someone walks past it.
If you camp on soft ground regularly, a base plate on top of a length of 4×4 under each jack is cheap insurance. The jack stays flat and the pad takes the sinking, and it takes about a minute per corner.
Where the limits show
Mounting holes are not universal across trailer brands, so expect to drill and possibly weld a plate. Budget an afternoon for the first jack and a fraction of that for the rest once your template is marked.
And again, this is a stabilizer. A 7500 lb rating does not turn a scissor jack into a leveling system, and lifting a trailer onto these will bend the arms or strip the gear teeth long before the load rating is reached.
6. ROCKMAN 7500 lb Scissor Jacks – Best for Accurate Leveling
Pros
- 7500 lb capacity with 24 inches of lift on each jack
- Included 3-bubble magnetic level speeds accurate setup
- 3/4 inch hex magnetic socket accepts a power drill
- Wide bow-tie base handles soft or uneven terrain
Cons
- About 40 lbs for the pair is a heavy lift to position
- Drill not included
- only the socket
The magnetic level is the reason this set exists. Slap it on the frame rail or the top of the jack and you can read all three axes without walking back to the cab with a stick of bubble level. Owners credit it with turning a slow ten-minute setup into a quick one, and it is the single most useful accessory in this entire roundup.
The rest of the design is the familiar heavy-duty scissor recipe: reinforced steel with an electrophoresis coating, 7500 lb per jack, 4 inch retracted to 24 inch extended, 26.5 inch retracted length and 7.5 inch width. A 3/4 inch hex magnetic socket is included for drill operation.
At 4.8 stars this set has the highest average rating of anything we tested. The rating rests on a smaller review base than some of the kits here, so treat it as strong rather than proven at scale, but the feedback is consistent and specific rather than vague.
Weight is the trade. Forty pounds for a pair means a real lift onto a high mounting plate, and the manual drive means you will want a drill for it. Both are workable, just worth planning for on install day.
Best fit for uneven, sloped campsites
The combination of a level you can actually read and 24 inches of travel is what you want when the site drops away from you. You are chasing small corrections, and the level lets you make them without guessing.
For a trailer that boondocks in the same rough spot every season, the level becomes a habit-saver. The rust-resistant finish is the other thing that matters for a permanently mounted set left outside year-round.
Where it is the wrong pick
If you are only swapping two rusted factory jacks on a small trailer, the level is a nice-to-have and the 40 lb pair is overkill. The lighter 6000 lb sets cover that case for less effort.
It is also worth checking your ground clearance before drilling. At 26.5 inches retracted, these sit lower than a screw jack, which helps on a sloped drive but can be close on a tow vehicle with limited hitch clearance.
7. Camco Eaz-Lift Telescopic Jacks – Best for High Mounting Points
Pros
- Telescopic design gives 14 inches of adjustment range
- Quick pull-pin makes height changes almost instant
- Powder-coated steel for real rust protection
- Established Camco and Eaz-Lift brand with a 1 year warranty
Cons
- 16 inch minimum rules out low-clearance rigs
- Manual only with no drill socket
- Jack pairs weigh 2.7 kg
Telescopic jacks solve a problem scissor jacks create. A scissor jack needs room above and below to extend; a telescopic jack just needs the height. On a trailer with a high-mounted frame or an unusually deep clearance situation, that 16 to 30 inch range is the difference between reaching the frame and shimming up to it.
The pull-pin adjustment is genuinely quicker than a screw jack. You pull the pin, reposition the leg, push it back in, and the height changes in seconds with no cranking at all. The two jacks in the set weigh 2.7 kg, so this is one of the easiest pairs to handle.
Powder coating is where Eaz-Lift has put its effort, and that is the right priority. The 6000 lb capacity is unremarkable next to the 7500 and 9000 lb scissor kits, but if you are buying for reach rather than raw load, that trade makes sense.
There is a one year manufacturer warranty behind it, which is worth noting in a category where most of the cheap kits carry no warranty at all.
Who should buy this pair
Trailers with a high or boxy frame, older rigs with a tall I-beam, and anyone who has fought a scissor jack for room to extend will get on well with these. Truck campers and cargo trailers on a drop-away frame often land in that group.
Because the pair is so light, it is also a good choice for someone who does not want to drill the frame. These can be mounted on a simple bracket or even used as screw-down supports from a stored position.
Where the 16 inch minimum bites
On a low-to-the-ground travel trailer or a pop-up, a 16 inch minimum height is simply too tall to reach the frame. You would be standing on blocks to use it, which defeats the purpose of a jack meant to help you level.
It is also fully manual. If you are setting up four corners on a sloped site, you are turning these by hand the whole way, and there is no drill socket to speed that up.
8. BAL 7500 lb Classic Scissor Jacks – Best Bolt-On Replacement
Pros
- 7500 lb static load capacity per jack
- 20 inches of lift from 4 inches retracted
- Fast smooth hand-crank operation
- Mounting hardware included for bolt-on or weld-on
Cons
- Hand crank only
- no power-drill socket
- Higher cost than generic scissor jack kits
- No drill or socket included with the pair
BAL is the part number owners actually name when they talk about this category, and 24002D is the one that comes up most often. On The RV Forum, one owner runs four of these scissor jacks as manual leveler jacks on a 3500 lb casita and reports they also make maintenance far easier. Another post in the same thread recommends welding custom mounting plates with pre-drilled bolt holes so the jacks can be swapped later without re-cutting the frame.
That last point is worth stealing as a general practice. If you drill your own plate, drill the holes to match the OEM pattern of the jack you are replacing and every future swap is a bolt-on job instead of a welding appointment.
The 24002D is 7500 lb static load per jack, extending from 4 inches to 24 inches, and it is rated by the manufacturer for both stabilization and leveling duties. Operation is a hand crank, and owners consistently describe it as fast and smooth, which tells you the gear train is properly machined.
On the load math, an owner in the same thread worked through a 14500 lb Class C divided across four jacks, which is 3625 lb per corner, or 48 percent of a 7500 lb jack rating. That is the kind of margin you want, and it is a good sanity check on any capacity number you are considering.
Why the hardware matters for a swap
Bolts are included, and the bracket accepts either bolting or welding. For most trailers the existing OEM holes are close enough that a set of new bolts is all a swap needs, which turns a two-day job into an afternoon.
The static load rating is a genuinely useful spec here. It tells you the jack is rated to hold a sustained load rather than a momentary peak, which is exactly the loading condition a parked trailer creates.
What you give up
No drill socket. If you already own a cordless driver with a 3/4 inch hex bit, an adapter makes this jack drill-driven, and owners who have done it report it works fine. Out of the box, it is a hand crank only.
It also costs more than the generic scissor kits for the same 7500 lb rating and the same 24 inch lift. You are paying for the established brand, the smooth action and the warranty history, which is a real trade rather than a marketing one.
9. Lippert 30 inch Scissor Jack Kit – Best for Deep Frame Clearance
Pros
- 30 inch of lift handles the deepest frame reach in this roundup
- Rust-inhibitive powder-coated finish
- Ergonomic smooth crank handle
- Universal bolt-on kit with all mounting hardware
Cons
- 5000 lb per jack is the lowest rating in the group
- Manual crank only with no drill socket
- 34.1 lbs for the pair is heavy
Lippert is the manufacturer the search engines keep pointing at for this topic, and this kit is their bolt-on manual answer. Thirty inches of lift is the deepest reach of anything in this roundup, which makes it the pick for a rig with a low-hanging frame where a 24 inch scissor jack simply runs out of travel.
The mounting is genuinely universal, with all hardware included, and reviewers report fitting it without drilling out of the box on models that share the OEM hole pattern. The ergonomically designed smooth crank handle is a nicer detail than it sounds, because a lot of cranking is exactly what you do not want on a cold morning.
Paint matters more than the spec sheet admits. The black powder-coated finish with a rust-inhibitive surface is what keeps the inner column from pitting, and rust pitting on the screw column is the number one complaint owners have about original equipment jacks. One owner reported all four of their jacks rusted through and two twisted, which is the exact failure this finish is designed to prevent.
Size the load carefully. At 5000 lb per jack, the lowest rating in this group, the per-corner load should stay under about 2500 lb for comfortable margin, which points this kit at small and mid-size travel trailers rather than a loaded fifth wheel.
When 30 inches of reach is the deciding factor
Think deeply sloped access roads, high-mounted frame rails and trailers sitting on a drop-away or a raised chassis. When vertical reach is the problem, extra capacity is not the answer, and a taller jack is.
It is also the safer pick if you want an OEM-name replacement. Lippert built the original stabilizers on a large share of the trailers on the road, so the bolt pattern and the hole spacing are likely to match what is already on your frame.
Where the trade-offs bite
At 34.1 lbs for a pair, these are heavy to lift into place, and the crank-only drive means every corner is manual effort. Both are fine for a planned installation day and irritating for a weekly setup routine.
The 5000 lb rating is the real limit. Run the divide-by-four math on your loaded trailer weight before you commit, and if each corner comes out above roughly 2500 lb, choose a 7500 lb or 9000 lb jack instead.
10. Pafessa 6500 lb Scissor Jack – Best Direct OEM Swap
Pros
- 6500 lb capacity with 24 inches of lift
- Double-threaded rod extends and retracts quickly
- Universal 3.5 by 7 inch plate lines up with common OEM holes
- Pre-lubed rod and powder coat reduce maintenance
Cons
- Mounting bolts not included
- Crank socket can strip under load in isolated reports
- Spindle protrudes when the jack is extended
This is the one to buy when your only goal is getting rid of a rusted factory jack without touching the frame. The 3.5 by 7 inch universal mounting plate is sized to line up with the hole pattern on the common OEM scissor stabilizers, so in most cases you unbolt four old screws, drop this in and bolt it back up.
The double-threaded rod is a smart choice for a jack you will operate often. It moves faster in both directions than a single-thread design, and it arrives pre-lubed, which is more than most competing jacks bother with.
Capacity lands in a useful middle ground at 6500 lb, extending from 4.5 inches to 24 inches, with a double-threaded rod and a powder-coated finish for rust resistance. A 3/4 inch socket fits on the end nut if you want to drive it with a drill instead of the included crank handle.
A minority of owners report the crank socket stripping under load and threads that feel rougher than the Kohree or ROCKMAN arms. That is not the dominant pattern, but if you are going to drive it hard with an impact gun, do not.
Why the plate pattern is the feature
Most trailer jacks fail from rust, and most replacement projects stall because nobody wants to drill an I-beam. A plate that matches the OEM hole pattern turns a weekend project into a coffee-break job, which is a bigger deal than any capacity difference between 6000 and 7500 lb jacks.
It is a single jack, so you can replace one corner at a time as the old ones fail instead of replacing all four at once. That staggered approach is how most owners end up with mismatched jacks eventually, so matching the model going forward is worth doing.
Where it falls short
Bolts are not included, so have the right 3/8 inch hardware on hand before you start. And the spindle protrudes when extended, which matters if you run very close clearance behind a wheel.
The 212-review base is the smallest in this roundup, so expect less long-term feedback. The mechanism is conventional and the specs are clear, but treat it as the value replacement rather than the proven upgrade.
How to Choose: Match Jack Capacity to Your Trailer Weight
Most buying guides stop at the rated load number on the box. The number that actually matters is the load per corner, and it takes about two minutes to work out.
Step one: find your trailer loaded weight. Use the GVWR on the VIN plate, not the dry weight on the spec sheet, because you are carrying gear, water, propane and a generator most of the time. Step two: divide by four for the corner load. Step three: aim for a jack rated at twice that number, which is the 50 percent safety margin owners use in practice on soft ground.
A 7000 lb loaded travel trailer puts 1750 lb on each corner. A 5000 lb jack covers that with wide margin. A 14500 lb Class C puts 3625 lb on each corner, so a 7500 lb jack is running at about 48 percent of its rating, which is comfortable.
Once you have the per-corner number, work down this list. First, is the rated load at least double the corner load? Second, does the travel range cover your frame height, and does the retracted length clear your ground clearance? Third, do the mounting holes match, or are you drilling and welding? Fourth, does the drive method suit how often you set up? Fifth, and most often skipped, what is the finish on the screw column, and will you maintain it?
Finish is the fifth question because it decides how long the first four keep working. Electrophoresis coating, powder coating and galvanized steel screws all resist corrosion. Bare steel does not, and salt air will eat a bare screw column faster than any capacity rating matters.
Finally, decide honestly whether you want stabilizers or a leveling system. If your sites are mostly level driveways, a set of scissor jacks plus blocks is the right answer and costs a fraction of a powered install. If you camp on rough ground every week, spend the money on Lippert Level Up, Bigfoot or an HWH install and keep the manual jacks as a backup.
If you are still working out what else a rig needs, our picks for the best leveling kits cover the pads and blocks that pair with the jacks above.
Installation, Clearance, and the Mistakes That Bend Frames
Clearance is the mistake owners regret most, and it is entirely avoidable. The retracted length of a scissor jack is often 26 inches, which means on a sloped driveway or a badly parked trailer the jack can contact the ground, a curb or a tire while you are driving away. Measure your lowest clearance with the jacks fully retracted before you drill anything.
For mounting, mark all four positions with the supplied drill guide sticker before you cut a single hole, then check that the retracted jack clears the tire and the ground at full articulation. A welded plate with pre-drilled OEM-matching holes, as forum owners recommend, makes every future swap a bolt-on job.
Reinforce the frame rail where you drill. A jack plate spread across two adjacent holes spreads the load, and a single hole in an I-beam flange is a crack waiting to happen. Keep the screw column greased and the finish intact, and expect a coating inspection every season if you store outside.
On storage, jack motors on powered systems should be cycled a few times a month during the off-season to keep the seals wet, and the battery needs a maintainer through winter. For manual jacks, wash off salt, dry the threads and spray a light protectant before the trailer goes into storage.
And the rule that overrides everything else in this article: never support a trailer on its stabilizer jacks alone. They are rated to hold a corner while the frame is already supported. If a wheel needs to come off, use properly rated jack stands on solid ground, and if you need to work under the rig, chock the wheels and support the frame at four separate points.
Frequently Asked Questions
Who makes the best RV stabilizer jacks?
BAL, Kohree, ROCKMAN and LIBRA are the strongest names in bolt-on scissor jacks, and BAL 24002D is the specific model owners most often name in RV forums. For aluminum screw jacks that you carry rather than mount, RVGUARD and VEVOR are the two we trust for lighter rigs. The right brand depends more on your frame height and corner load than on any badge.
What is the best leveling system for a travel trailer?
A powered hydraulic system is the only category that truly levels a trailer without blocks. Lippert Level Up and Bigfoot, Andersen Hitches and HWH all use a motor and a control switch to drive each corner until the trailer sits level. If you camp on flat sites, a set of scissor stabilizers plus leveling blocks is the cheaper and more practical answer.
What is the difference between RV stabilizer jacks and leveling jacks?
A stabilizer jack removes rocking by adding a small amount of height at a corner and holding it there. A leveling jack adds enough height at every corner to bring the floor to a true horizontal plane with no blocks underneath. Every manual jack sold as a stabilizer, including every scissor jack in this roundup, belongs to the first group.
How heavy does each jack need to be for my trailer?
Take your loaded trailer weight, divide by four for the corner load, then choose a jack rated at least double that figure. A 7000 lb loaded trailer is 1750 lb per corner, so a 5000 lb jack works with margin. Use the 4000 lb rated figure rather than the 6000 lb stated figure when sizing the VEVOR set.
What is the best jack for changing RV tires?
None of them, and this is the most important safety point in this article. Stabilizer and leveling jacks are not rated to lift a trailer and will not hold a vehicle weight. Support the trailer on properly rated jack stands on solid ground, chock the wheels and work from there. If you need a stand rated well past a trailer weight, the right tool is a transmission jack stand, not an RV stabilizer.
After working through ten sets of best rv leveling jacks for travel trailers, the ranking comes down to how you camp and how much your trailer weighs. If you want one set that covers almost any travel trailer under 8000 lb GVWR, the LIBRA 9K lb set of four is the one we would bolt on, with dual drill sockets and the highest rated load here. The 9000 lb rating leaves margin on a soft site and covers the load math without a second thought.
For lighter rigs, the RVGUARD stack jacks do the stabilizing job for a fraction of the weight, and the ROCKMAN pair is the pick if you camp on uneven ground and want the magnetic level. If you need vertical reach rather than capacity, the Lippert 30 inch kit handles the deepest frames, and the Camco telescopic pair covers a high mounting point where a scissor jack has no room to extend.
One last reminder before you order. Divide your loaded weight by four, double it, and match that to a rating. Then never, under any circumstances, use any of these jacks to support a trailer while you work underneath it. Check the latest price for your pick above, and upgrade the finish on whatever you mount, because rust is what ends these jacks, not weight.
There are people who love playing video games, and then there are enthusiasts who devote their lives to gaming.
Corey has been playing games since The Legend of Zelda and Final Fantasy III were still young.
Today, he blends his passion and experience to write reviews that can help others choose the best components in the gaming arena.