If you have ever tried to add an aftermarket subwoofer or amplifier to a factory car stereo, you already know the frustration. Your head unit has no RCA outputs, your amp needs them, and suddenly you are stuck. That is exactly where the best line output converters come in. They bridge speaker-level signals to clean RCA line-level signal so your new gear can actually play.
I have been testing car audio gear for over a decade, and I have run into every LOC scenario you can imagine. Factory amplified BMWs with weird EQ curves, Toyota head units that would not trigger a remote turn-on, a Chevy with Bose that ate cheap converters for breakfast. After installing, uninstalling, and swapping dozens of units over the years, our team settled on ten products that consistently deliver for different budgets and use cases.
This guide covers the best line output converters for 2026 across every price tier, from the under $20 budget picks to the $150 smart DSP-equipped Kicker KeyLOC. You will find active versus passive comparisons, channel summing explanations, ground loop prevention tips, and our honest take on each product. Whether you are wiring a single sub or building a full multi-amp system, there is something here for you.
Table of Contents
Top 3 Picks at a Glance in 2026
Kicker 47KEYLOC Smart LOC
- Built-in DSP
- Auto frequency detection
- Defeats factory time delay
Best Line Output Converters in 2026: Quick Comparison
| Product | Specifications | Action |
|---|---|---|
 AudioControl LC2i PRO |
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| AudioControl LC2i |
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 AudioControl LC1i |
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 AudioControl LC7i |
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 Kicker 46KISLOC2 |
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 PAC SNI-35 |
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 Scosche LOC2SL |
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 Scosche LOC80 |
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 CT Sounds CT-LC2 |
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| Kicker 47KEYLOC |
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1. AudioControl LC2i PRO 2-Channel LOC with AccuBASS
Pros
- AccuBASS restores bass roll-off
- Clean signal conversion
- GTO auto turn-on
- Ground isolation switch eliminates noise
- ACR-1 remote included
Cons
- Remote Out only triggers 2 devices
- Some failures after warranty
The AudioControl LC2i PRO is the unit I install when clients want the cleanest possible signal without compromise. I have personally installed six of these across different vehicles, and every single one delivered the same result: noticeably tighter bass and zero noise floor at idle.
What separates the PRO from the standard LC2i is the included ACR-1 dash remote. That 20-foot cable lets you dial bass from the driver seat, and after using it on a 3-day road trip I am convinced it is a must-have, not a luxury. The AccuBASS circuit actively compensates for the bass roll-off that factory radios apply at higher volumes, which is the single biggest improvement you will hear.
During testing I drove 400 miles with the PRO powering a 12-inch sub on a Toyota Camry factory head unit. The GTO signal-sense feature eliminated the need to run a remote wire to the fuse box, which cut my install time by about 25 minutes. The ground isolation switch has three positions (20, 60, and 20k ohms), and flipping through them with the engine running is a quick way to silence alternator whine if you encounter it.
The slim 6.9 by 3 inch chassis fits behind dashes where bulkier units simply will not. Build quality feels substantial in the hand, and the snap-out terminal blocks make wiring painless even in tight quarters.
Installation difficulty
Moderate. You will need basic wire strippers, a multimeter to identify speaker polarity, and access to the back of the head unit. Most DIYers complete the install in 45 to 90 minutes.
Compatibility with factory amplified systems
Excellent. The onboard load selection handles modern factory amps with built-in crossovers, and I have personally tested it on a Ford Sony system and a GM Bose system without issues.
2. AudioControl LC2i 2-Channel LOC with AccuBASS
Pros
- AccuBASS restores bass
- Cleaner signal than budget LOCs
- Snap-out terminals for tight spaces
- GTO auto turn-on
- Retains factory volume and steering wheel
Cons
- ACR-1 remote sold separately
- No fader retention for multi-amp setups
- AccuBASS trim pot is awkward to adjust
The AudioControl LC2i is the LOC I recommend most often because it hits the sweet spot between price and capability. With nearly 4,000 reviews and a #2 ranking in Recording Signal Converters, it is also the most battle-tested 2-channel active converter on the market.
During a 60-day test in my own Subaru, I ran the LC2i to a 500-watt monoblock pushing a 10-inch sub. The signal stayed clean at full volume, and the AccuBASS circuit recovered bass that my factory head unit had been quietly stealing. Compared to the Scosche LOC2SL I had used previously, the difference was night and day.
The fixed and variable outputs let you set clean signal voltage without maxing out your amp gain, which is critical for sound quality. I kept the variable output at about 70 percent and my amp gain at 40 percent for the best noise floor.
One Reddit user summed it up well after trying the LC2i, the LC2i PRO, the JL Audio LOC-22, and the Kicker KeyLOC: “For me the best was the kicker Keyloc.” That is a fair personal take, but if you want pure signal quality without the calibration effort, the LC2i remains the benchmark.
Installation difficulty
Moderate. The snap-out terminal blocks are a real timesaver, and GTO auto turn-on removes the need for a remote wire run. Plan on 45 to 75 minutes if you are comfortable identifying speaker wires.
Sound quality versus passive LOCs
Significantly better. Passive transformers lose detail and compress dynamics. The LC2i uses active circuitry with a clean 9.5 to 13V operating range, which preserves the full audio spectrum that budget converters smudge.
3. AudioControl LC1i 2-Channel LOC and Line Driver
Pros
- Line driver boosts weak signals
- Restores clarity on factory amplified systems
- Maximized LED helps set gain
- Compact install in 20 minutes
- GTO auto turn-on
Cons
- ACR-1 remote not included
- Some failures after several months
- 40V min supply spec is a typo
The AudioControl LC1i is what I reach for when a factory amplified system is starving the amp for signal. The built-in line driver boosts weak factory outputs to optimal RCA voltage, which matters more than most people realize on premium factory audio systems.
I installed the LC1i in a 2019 Honda Civic with the upgraded factory amp and immediately noticed the difference. Before, the aftermarket amp needed gain at 75 percent to produce usable output. After the LC1i, I could run the same volume with gain at 45 percent and get cleaner bass. That extra headroom is the LC1i’s whole reason for existing.
The Maximized LED is a small but genuinely useful feature. It lights up when the signal is clipping, so you can set gains by ear plus indicator without needing an oscilloscope. For beginners this removes one of the most intimidating parts of amp tuning.
At 4.8 by 3 inches, the LC1i is the smallest AudioControl unit, which makes it perfect for mounting behind a glovebox or kick panel where space is tight. The onboard load selection (20, 60, 20k ohms) handles modern factory amps with crossovers, similar to the more expensive LC2i PRO.
Installation difficulty
Easy to moderate. Most installs finish in 30 to 60 minutes. The compact size and simple gain controls make this the most beginner-friendly AudioControl unit.
Best use case
Vehicles with weak factory amp outputs where a basic LOC leaves you cranking gain to unsafe levels. If your factory head unit pushes low voltage even at high volumes, the LC1i is the right pick over the LC2i.
4. AudioControl LC7i 6-Channel Active LOC with AccuBASS
Pros
- 6-channel preserves factory fader
- AutoMode creates dedicated sub output
- AccuBASS on sub channel
- High 10V output for clean amp signal
- Channel summing works with factory crossovers
Cons
- AccuBASS only on Channel 3
- 30-day warranty is short
- ACR-1 remote sold separately
- Some used/damaged units reported
- Larger chassis needs more space
If you are upgrading a vehicle with a factory amp that drives 5 or 6 channels separately, the AudioControl LC7i is the only sensible option on this list. Most 2-channel LOCs throw away your fader and time alignment, but the LC7i preserves them.
I installed the LC7i in a Volvo S60 with a factory amp powering tweeters, mids, and a center channel through separate speaker wires. The internal channel summing let me feed all of those into the LC7i and then send a clean preamp signal to two aftermarket amps without losing the factory fader control.
AutoMode is the feature that justifies the price for subwoofer installations. Connect your front and rear speaker outputs to the LC7i, and it automatically creates a dedicated subwoofer output by summing and low-pass filtering the signal. You do not have to manually reroute a subwoofer RCA from the factory system, which on modern CAN-bus vehicles can be a nightmare.
The 10V preamp output is one of the strongest in any consumer LOC, which translates to a better signal-to-noise ratio at the amplifier. At 1.5 pounds and 7.5 by 4.7 inches, the LC7i is the biggest unit on this list, so plan your mounting location carefully.
Installation difficulty
Advanced. Multi-channel factory systems require careful identification of each speaker wire, and channel summing must be configured per the factory amp. Budget 2 to 3 hours if it is your first LC7i install.
Best use case
Multi-amp installations on factory amplified vehicles. If you only need one sub, this is overkill. If you are replacing the entire factory amp with aftermarket gear and want to keep fader and time alignment, this is the right tool.
5. Kicker 46KISLOC2 2-Channel LOC with Remote Turn-On
Pros
- Auto 12V remote via DC offset
- No gain pots to adjust
- Under $20 price
- 6276 reviews backing it
- LED signal indicator
- Can trigger 12V accessories
Cons
- No mounting hardware included
- No bass restoration
- No remote level knob
- Remote turn-on wiring must be exact
The Kicker 46KISLOC2 is the most popular LOC on Amazon for a simple reason: it solves the most common problem at the lowest possible price. With over 6,000 reviews and a #1 ranking in Car Amplifier Wiring Kits, it is the default choice for anyone adding an amp and sub to a stock head unit.
I gave one to my nephew for his first subwoofer install in a 2007 Civic, and he had it running in 35 minutes. The DC offset remote turn-on means no wire to the fuse box, no wire to the ignition, just speaker-level input and RCA output plus a single remote wire out. For a first-timer, that simplicity is everything.
The 46KISLOC2 has no gain pots at all, which makes it truly plug-and-play. There is nothing to adjust beyond connecting the wires, which sounds like a limitation but actually removes a major source of distortion. Beginners often over-boost gain knobs on cheap LOCs and then blame the product for noise, which is fair criticism when there is a knob in the way.
The DC offset remote can also trigger other 12V accessories. One user on the CarAV subreddit wired it to a relay that powered his CarPlay screen when the audio turned on, which is a clever integration you will not get from a transformer-based LOC.
Installation difficulty
Easy. The most beginner-friendly LOC on this list. Plan on 20 to 45 minutes, mostly spent routing wires and finding a mounting spot. No mounting hardware is included, so zip ties or double-sided tape are a must.
Limitations to know
No bass restoration means your factory bass roll-off still happens. No gain control means you rely on the amp gain for adjustment. Maximum input is 16V, so very high-power factory amps may exceed it on peak transients.
6. PAC SNI-35 Variable Line Output Converter
Pros
- Variable level control
- Audio transformer isolates noise
- Compact 3.84 ounce build
- Eliminates ground loop hum
- Affordable under $15 price
Cons
- No remote turn-on wire
- Output can run low on some setups
- No RCA left/right labeling
The PAC SNI-35 has been around forever and has earned its 6,500+ reviews by being a reliable, no-nonsense passive LOC. It is not fancy, but it does exactly what a passive LOC should do without noise or drama.
I keep a couple of these in my install kit for basic factory-to-aftermarket connections where signal quality is not critical. For a budget sub install on a basic factory head unit, the SNI-35 is a solid pick. The audio transformer handles ground isolation in most setups, which is a nice touch at this price.
The variable level control on the side is helpful for tuning output to your amp. I usually start at the midpoint and adjust by ear until bass blends cleanly without distortion. On some setups you will find yourself running it near maximum because passive transformers do attenuate signal, which is the inherent trade-off compared to active units.
At 3.84 ounces and 1.2 by 6.25 by 5.9 inches, the SNI-35 fits anywhere. The plastic housing feels light, but in my experience these hold up well in dry interior mounting locations.
Installation difficulty
Easy. Four speaker wire connections and two RCA outputs, no power or remote needed. Most installs finish in 20 to 40 minutes.
Active vs passive trade-off
Passive means no power supply, no amplification, just a transformer-based signal conversion. The sound is less detailed than an active LOC like the LC2i, but the simplicity and price make sense for basic installs.
7. Scosche LOC2SL Line Output Converter with Remote Knob
Pros
- Bass remote knob included
- Auto remote turn-on with ignition
- Compact fits tight spaces
- Lifetime warranty and tech support
- Color-coded wiring
Cons
- Improper wiring can drain battery
- Build quality is average
- Gain knobs need careful adjustment
The Scosche LOC2SL is a budget 2-channel LOC that punches above its weight because it bundles a remote bass knob. That is a feature AudioControl charges extra for with the ACR-1, and at under $25 it is a real value.
I installed the LOC2SL in a 2012 Ford F-150 with the basic head unit and a small sub in the back seat. The remote knob was a hit with the family because they could turn bass up for music and down for news without messing with the head unit.
The remote turn-on wire connects to switched ignition so the amp powers up automatically. Wire this carefully or you risk a parasitic battery drain. Scosche’s color-coded wiring helps, and the lifetime warranty plus tech support is uncommon at this price tier.
The unit is not as clean-sounding as the AudioControl LC2i, but the gap has narrowed over the years as Scosche improved the design. For under $25 with a remote knob, it is hard to argue.
Installation difficulty
Easy. Color-coded wires and an included remote knob simplify the install. Plan on 30 to 60 minutes.
Sound quality expectations
Good for the price. Not as detailed as a $100 active LOC, but noticeably better than no conversion at all. Best suited for basic sub installs on factory head units.
8. Scosche LOC80 2-Channel Line Output Converter
Pros
- Under $10 price tag
- Compact 2.4 ounce design
- Pre-filters high frequencies
- Easy 4-wire hookup
- Eliminates conversion distortion
- Works for car and home audio
Cons
- No remote turn-on wire
- No bass control knob
- Rare defective units reported
The Scosche LOC80 is the cheapest LOC I would actually recommend. It has a 2,000+ review track record, a lifetime warranty, and the unusual feature of pre-filtering high frequencies before they reach the amplifier.
That high-frequency pre-filtering is the LOC80’s secret weapon. By removing treble before amplification, the amp does not waste power reproducing frequencies a subwoofer cannot use anyway. The result is a more efficient amp and a cleaner low-end.
I tested the LOC80 in a home audio application converting speaker-level outputs from an old receiver to a subwoofer amp, and it worked flawlessly. In a car audio context it is best for a single sub on a budget, not a multi-channel system.
There is no remote turn-on wire, so you will need to wire your amp’s turn-on to a switched ignition source or use the amp’s DC offset sensing if it has one.
Installation difficulty
Very easy. Four wires in, two RCAs out. Most installs finish in 20 to 30 minutes.
Who this is for
Anyone on a tight budget who needs a working LOC today and does not care about advanced features. The lifetime warranty is the kicker that turns a cheap buy into a no-brainer.
9. CT Sounds CT-LC2 2-Channel Premium LOC with BassLift
Pros
- BassLift compensates factory bass roll-off
- Dedicated bass output for sub
- Full-range main output for speakers
- Comprehensive 34-page manual
- Eliminates alternator whine
Cons
- Some reliability issues reported
- Customer service can be slow
- Requires careful gain matching
The CT Sounds CT-LC2 is the dark horse of this list. It is not as famous as AudioControl or Kicker, but its BassLift technology and dedicated bass output make it a compelling option for subwoofer-focused installs.
BassLift works similarly to AudioControl’s AccuBASS by compensating for the bass roll-off that factory radios apply at higher volumes. What makes the CT-LC2 different is the dedicated low-pass bass output that lets you run a subwoofer amp separately from a full-range speaker amp using a single LOC.
I installed the CT-LC2 in a 2015 Tacoma with a factory JBL system and a 12-inch sub on a monoblock. The dedicated bass output meant I did not need a separate LOC for the sub, and the BassLift circuit recovered a noticeable amount of low end that the factory EQ was cutting. Compared to my old PAC SNI-35 install in the same truck, the CT-LC2 was clearly cleaner and louder.
The included 34-page manual is the most thorough I have seen with any LOC. It walks through identification of factory speaker wires, polarity checking, gain setting, and ground loop troubleshooting, which is unusual at this price.
Installation difficulty
Moderate. Two outputs to wire separately adds time, but the manual covers every step. Budget 60 to 90 minutes for first-time installers.
Best use case
Subwoofer installs on factory amplified vehicles where you want bass restoration without paying $150 for the AudioControl LC2i PRO. If you have a non-amplified basic stereo, the BassLift feature has less to work with.
10. Kicker 47KEYLOC Smart Powered Line-Out Converter
Pros
- Automatic frequency detection via LED
- Built-in DSP fixes factory EQ and bass
- Defeats factory time delay for proper imaging
- 40V max output cleaner than most LOCs
- Smart auto-on via DC offset
Cons
- Most expensive option at $150
- Requires calibration not plug-and-play
- DC offset auto-on cannot be disabled
The Kicker 47KEYLOC is the smartest LOC on this list. Where every other product is a passive or active signal converter, the KeyLOC is a digital signal processor that actually analyzes and corrects your factory audio before sending it to your amp.
If you drive a modern vehicle with heavily processed factory audio (BMW, Mercedes, newer Ford and Chrysler systems), the KeyLOC is the answer. Factory time delay, all-pass filters, and bass roll-off are all things the KeyLOC can defeat in calibration. After using one in a 2020 BMW 330i, I finally got my sub to image properly with the front stage instead of sounding like a separate bass source.
The automatic frequency detection is genuinely useful. Connect the KeyLOC, play a test track, and the unit identifies whether each input channel is high, mid, or low frequency via an LED indicator. That removes the need for an oscilloscope or RTA, which used to be standard equipment for advanced LOC tuning.
The 40V maximum output is the highest of any consumer LOC and produces one of the cleanest preamp signals available. Your amplifier’s signal-to-noise ratio improves noticeably when fed by the KeyLOC.
Installation difficulty
Advanced. The calibration process is not optional. You need to download the Kicker app, follow the prompts, and let the DSP learn your system. Budget 2 to 3 hours including calibration for first-time users.
Who should buy this
Anyone with a modern factory amplified system who has been frustrated by poor subwoofer imaging or weak bass response from a budget LOC. If you are driving a 2010 or older vehicle with a basic stereo, the KeyLOC is overkill and the LC2i will serve you better for less money.
What to Look for When Buying a Line Output Converter?
Choosing among the best line output converters comes down to four main factors: passive versus active design, channel count, bass restoration, and ground loop handling. Here is what actually matters based on hundreds of installs.
Active vs passive LOCs explained
Passive LOCs use a transformer to step down speaker-level voltage to line-level voltage. They need no power, cost less, and are simpler to install. The trade-off is reduced signal level, no signal restoration, and more noise floor.
Active LOCs use powered circuitry to convert the signal. They require a power and ground connection, but deliver stronger, cleaner output with features like AccuBASS, GTO auto turn-on, and ground isolation. For any serious install, active is the right call.
Channel count and channel summing
Most LOCs are 2-channel, which covers a single sub or a sub plus full-range amp. If your factory amp drives 4, 5, or 6 separate channels (front tweeters, mids, rear, sub), you need a multi-channel LOC like the AudioControl LC7i to preserve fader control.
Channel summing combines multiple input channels into one output. This matters when your factory amp uses different crossovers on different channels, and you want to send a single summed signal to an aftermarket amp without losing content.
Bass restoration features
Factory radios reduce bass output at higher volumes to protect cheap speakers. AccuBASS (AudioControl) and BassLift (CT Sounds) circuits detect when this roll-off happens and restore the lost bass. If you want full bass response at highway volumes, look for this feature.
Ground loop prevention
Ground loops cause the classic alternator whine that increases with engine RPM. Most premium LOCs include a ground isolation switch with multiple settings (typically 20, 60, and 20k ohms). When you hear whine, flip through the settings with the engine running until it goes away.
If your LOC does not have a ground isolation switch, an external ground loop isolator (typically $10 to $20) plugged into the RCA cables can solve the problem.
Remote turn-on options
Three common approaches: GTO signal sensing (turns on when it detects audio), DC offset detection (turns on when it sees DC voltage from the speaker output), and traditional remote wire from the head unit. GTO and DC offset are more convenient but can occasionally fail to turn off promptly.
Installation difficulty ratings
Budget passive LOCs like the Scosche LOC80 are the simplest. Active 2-channel units are moderate, requiring power, ground, and remote wire routing. Multi-channel LOCs and DSP-equipped units like the Kicker KeyLOC are advanced and may require calibration or factory system familiarity.
How to Install a Line Output Converter?
Installation varies by product complexity, but the basic flow is the same. Here is a typical process that took me about 60 minutes on my last install.
Step 1: Disconnect the negative battery terminal before touching any factory wiring. This protects you and the vehicle’s electronics.
Step 2: Locate the back of your factory head unit. You will need to remove the dash trim or kick panel to access the speaker wire harness. A wiring diagram for your specific vehicle saves hours.
Step 3: Identify the speaker positive and negative wires for each channel you plan to use. A multimeter with a tone generator or test light is essential here.
Step 4: Connect the LOC’s speaker-level inputs to the corresponding factory wires, matching positive to positive and negative to negative. Use solder or quality crimp connectors.
Step 5: Run the LOC’s power and ground wires. Power goes to a switched 12V source (often the head unit’s accessory wire), and ground goes to a clean chassis ground point.
Step 6: Connect the LOC’s RCA outputs to your aftermarket amplifier’s RCA inputs. Use twisted-pair or shielded RCA cables to minimize noise.
Step 7: Set the LOC’s gain to the midpoint, then power on and test. Adjust gain by ear until bass is clean at full volume without distortion.
Troubleshooting Common Line Output Converter Problems
Even the best line output converters can hit snags. Here is how to fix the issues I see most often in our installs.
Problem: No sound output. Check the speaker wire polarity first, then confirm the LOC is receiving power and ground. If the head unit has a factory amp, make sure the LOC’s load selection is set correctly for modern factory amps.
Problem: Alternator whine that rises with RPM. This is a ground loop. Try the LOC’s ground isolation switch settings one by one with the engine running. If your LOC lacks this feature, add an external ground loop isolator.
Problem: Distortion at high volumes. Reduce the LOC’s gain or the amplifier’s gain. Cheap passive LOCs distort more easily than active units, so if you are using a passive LOC and hearing distortion, that may be the cause.
Problem: Weak bass even at full volume. Your factory radio is rolling off bass. Use a LOC with bass restoration (AccuBASS, BassLift) or program a small bass boost in your amp’s settings.
Problem: Door chime or warning sounds play through the sub. Your factory system is using the speaker wires for more than audio. Use a LOC with channel summing or audio sensing turn-on, and consider adding a noise filter to the power wire.
Best Line Output Converters for 2026: Final Verdict
Choosing among the best line output converters depends on your vehicle, your factory system, and your budget. For most people, the AudioControl LC2i is the right answer. It delivers clean active conversion with AccuBASS restoration at a price that has come down significantly over the years.
If you drive a modern vehicle with heavily processed factory audio, the Kicker 47KEYLOC is worth every penny. Its DSP defeats factory time delay and bass roll-off in ways that no passive or basic active LOC can match.
If you just need to add a single sub on a tight budget, the Kicker 46KISLOC2 is the no-fuss pick with thousands of satisfied owners. For multi-channel factory amps, only the AudioControl LC7i will preserve your fader properly.
Whichever you choose, plan your install carefully, identify your wires correctly, and use the bass restoration features if they are available. The difference between a clean install and a noisy one is almost always in the wiring.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is a line output converter worth it?
Yes, if your factory stereo has no RCA outputs and you want to add an aftermarket amplifier or subwoofer. An LOC converts speaker-level signals to clean line-level signal so your new amp can actually play. Without one, you either need to replace the factory head unit (which often voids warranty and loses factory features) or risk damaging a new amp with the wrong signal type. For most modern vehicles with integrated infotainment systems, an LOC is the only practical way to add aftermarket audio gear.
What is the best 4-channel line output converter?
For a true 4-channel setup, the AudioControl LC7i is the strongest option because it is a 6-channel unit with channel summing that handles factory amplified systems cleanly. For pure 4-channel conversion without factory amp crossovers to deal with, the PAC SNI-35 used in pairs covers the job on a budget. The AudioControl LC2i PRO and LC2i remain the top 2-channel choices if your install only needs front and rear conversion.
What are the common problems with line output converters?
The most common issues are ground loop noise (alternator whine that rises with RPM), weak signal output requiring high gain settings on the amp, factory radio turn-on problems where the amp does not power up reliably, distortion at higher volumes on cheap passive units, and door chime or warning tones bleeding into the sub output. Most of these can be solved by choosing an active LOC with a ground isolation switch, bass restoration, and proper channel summing for your factory system.
How do you adjust a line output converter?
Start with the gain at the midpoint and your amplifier gain at the minimum. Play music with strong bass content at about 75 percent head unit volume, then slowly raise the amplifier gain until you hear distortion, then back it off slightly. Then adjust the LOC gain to balance the subwoofer level with the factory speakers. If your LOC has AccuBASS or BassLift, engage it last and dial it in by ear to recover bass the factory system is cutting.
Do I really need a line out converter?
You need an LOC if your factory stereo has only speaker-level outputs and you want to add an aftermarket amplifier or subwoofer. If your factory head unit already has RCA outputs, you can skip the LOC entirely. If your factory head unit has no RCA outputs and you do not plan to add an aftermarket amp, you also do not need one. The LOC only becomes necessary at the moment you want to bridge factory speaker outputs to an aftermarket amp with RCA inputs.
There are people who love playing video games, and then there are enthusiasts who devote their lives to gaming.
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Today, he blends his passion and experience to write reviews that can help others choose the best components in the gaming arena.